More lectron tuning help Merged Info
#61
Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:36 AM
These carbs weren't originally setup for my bike, they were setup for a twister motor for the 1/8 mile and a fuel pump.
When I called Dennis to talk to him about something else, we got into a 10 minute conversation about carbs (I told him I was a newbie but quick understudy...lol)
He mentioned a few things, like DO not drill the hole where the metering rod goes through, that he stacks a few washers under the seat (could be a sealing thing, not quite sure to be honest) etc.
#62
Posted 06 February 2011 - 09:24 AM
#63
Posted 06 February 2011 - 10:06 AM
Yes, flat side always goes towards the engine side.
#65
Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:49 AM
#66
Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:27 AM
may take custom needles due to motor size/ configuartion.
#67
Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:34 PM
#68
Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:01 PM
A larger motor has a better intake signal and can pull fuel out of the PJ more easily....
I agree with what is said...but Dennis may have a different trick like a pilot jet in the line or something to cut down flow, etc.
#69
Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:06 PM
J-Madd, on 31 May 2011 - 09:49 AM, said:
Those big engines have in-excess of 1.5 primary compression, that raises the the mean pressure differential from 4560 Newton per square meter of a 1.25 primary compression engine to 9119 Newton per square meter at 1.5, the suction doubles every .25 of primary compression ratio.
Bigger carb's will slow down the intake velocity, 44's will need Lectron 17-2 metering rods set at 2.90 mills thick across the flats to start.
#70
Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:50 PM
if the PJ pickup is right in the middle of the bore of the carb with a correct needle it should work ok..
BUT i can be wrong also.. i would highly suggest calling denis on these OR lectron direct they have been in a process of reinventing themselves and trying to expand the lectron name again. for so long they have delt primarily with street bike motors and that field of racing..
#71
Posted 01 June 2011 - 06:31 AM
What really makes me scratch my head is that it was tuned for the air leaks. I guess I could break some epoxy off of the cases and put those back
#72
Posted 01 June 2011 - 09:18 AM
J-Madd, on 01 June 2011 - 06:31 AM, said:
Yeah - do that .... or you could just achieve the same goal by drilling a hole in the side of the cylinder
There are "other ways" to reduce fuel flow - from capping the tank vent to filling the bowls with sand - lol
#73
Posted 07 June 2011 - 07:50 AM
#74
Posted 12 August 2011 - 12:09 AM
J-Madd, on 07 June 2011 - 07:50 AM, said:
After you have a good base line with a good idle, measure the needle thickness across the bottom of the slides. On alcohol its about 2.9mm, that is the thickness of needle the carb will see when the slide's is closed. Set any new needle's to that thickness.
Any needle taper or length can be changed out without losing your base line tuneup. Changing from Packard trenched to Lectron 17,18,19 (L or XL) needles are simple. The same can be done on gas.
#75
Posted 12 August 2011 - 04:53 AM
Wife's 370R Fastest true gas Pro-X Honda 4.29 in sand 4.17 in dirt 300ft on a dune chassis.
2-cycle generator and an old school Lawnboy to mow the yard!
It aint no joke if it blows blue smoke

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