ATV Drag Racers: More lectron tuning help - ATV Drag Racers

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More lectron tuning help Merged Info

#1 User is offline   Chugger 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 09:37 AM

I read the other posts but kinda need more assistance.
I just converted my bike to alky with a set of 38mm lectrons

My mods are stock stroke welded crank
vforce 3's
vito's monoblcok 68.5 mm bore
shearer small bore inframes
pod filters
nology coil and wires
stock cdi
degree plate set at +4 thanking of bumping to +7
b9es plugs

I started baseline tuning at needles 48mm out from plastic and pj's all the way open
way to rich on the low and high end

Leaned out the needles little more the bottom end seems ok but the revs kinda hang a little does this mean that its too rich or lean I have been checking plugs very often I am gonna start doing the wide open chops today I know I want discoloration at 9'o clock and 3' o clock

I set each carb the same and one plug seems wet and the other is dry. One side is smoking alot more than the other.

Thats where I am at so far
should I bump timing up to +7 or leave it
the domes I have are 20cc domes

I just dont want any meltdowns

Anyone have anymore baselines I can start from on the needles I am about 500ft above sea level.

meth mixed at 32:1 with benoil

thanks
chris
04 Shee
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#2 User is offline   Radar 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:46 AM

I'm no lectron guru but you didnt list what needles? That's very important. PE 1 (alky) needle is set to 48.5mms for what packard calls a neutral setting and at 1300 ft richen it another 3/4 of a turn from 48.5mm, at sea level richen 1 full turn from neutral. You would be in between the two of those.
If both carbs are set the same then you either have air/leak, ignition issues, or fuel going past the float/seat. Swap plug wires or even carb slides and see if the problem follows.
You didnt say what seats the carbs have or if you are running a pump. If you are duning a lot of people run 4-7 degrees of timing, if you were just draggin about 8 or 9 deg some run more tho.
You need to decide what you want for timing and set it there and make adjustments from that.
You always have the FLAT sides of the needles always FACING the motor right? PE 1 needles?
Until the sand flies.....your just blowin smoke.
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#3 User is offline   Chugger 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:54 AM

QUOTE (Radar @ Mar 10 2009, 02:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm no lectron guru but you didnt list what needles? That's very important. PE 1 (alky) needle is set to 48.5mms for what packard calls a neutral setting and at 1300 ft richen it another 3/4 of a turn from 48.5mm, at sea level richen 1 full turn from neutral. You would be in between the two of those.
If both carbs are set the same then you either have air/leak, ignition issues, or fuel going past the float/seat. Swap plug wires or even carb slides and see if the problem follows.
You didnt say what seats the carbs have or if you are running a pump. If you are duning a lot of people run 4-7 degrees of timing, if you were just draggin about 8 or 9 deg some run more tho.
You need to decide what you want for timing and set it there and make adjustments from that.
You always have the FLAT sides of the needles always FACING the motor right? PE 1 needles?


PE 1 needles and I will swap slides and so on with the wires. Will start out at +7

My plugs are just starting to show discoloration around the strap it hasnt even started to discolor on the base yet.

no fuel pump just gravity
04 Shee
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90 Lt500R soon the be rx'd
86 Tri-Shee
86 Tri-Z
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#4 User is offline   badassbanshee479 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:57 AM

if the revs are hanging you either have an air leak or it is lean! color on the ground strap is from your timing, you want it to just start to make the bend.... color on the base will form after a couple wot passes...
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#5 User is online   BBIII 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 05:43 PM

Ok i know some people alway wonder about tuning lectrons, thought this might help out a little.

Add others where you see fit.

Lectron tuning
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#6 User is offline   joshb 

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 08:16 PM

Tuning guide
"Wouldn't mind seein em"
"STFU"
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#7 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 01:38 AM

Richen it up if you're going from 4 to 7 on the timing...that's considerable more heat.

I actually pulled my slides out and used a real fine sand paper to smooth them out, etc.
There is a mod I'm doing to mine to drill the slides themself to remove any kind of vacuum lock.
Make sure your throttle cable, etc., is NOT hanging up as well.
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#8 User is offline   badassbanshee479 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 07:49 AM

do share dave!
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#9 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 07:55 AM

These are pics from Tim @ Titan, what he does to the slides. I'm doing this to mine over the weekend as well.
Said he uses a #38 or .101 drill bit for the holes.




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#10 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 08:08 AM

When this thread kinda dies down, Chugger...do you have any objection to me "merging" this with the other Lectron tuning thread?
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#11 User is online   BBIII 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 09:07 AM

Thats a good idea dave thanks for sharing.
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#12 User is offline   Chugger 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 10:04 AM

No problem at all I actually got fed up with them and took them off for the moment.

Im gonna call dennis and rebuild them both and get billet bowls I think my problem lies in the carbs I put the gas ones back in and it ran like a champ.

Yes by all means merge it what exactly does the mod do since i'm new to lectrons?
04 Shee
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#13 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 10:28 AM

Prevents them from sticking open by allowing venting through the holes.
When you get bigger motors the vacuum can cause the slide to hang a little.

This is a bigger problem on large single cylinder 4 strokes...
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#14 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 18 March 2009 - 03:14 AM

Merged and repinned this topic...no additions for 6 days.
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#15 User is offline   tripledsracing 

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Posted 10 April 2009 - 07:07 PM

chugger look at the tips of the needles and see if they look similiar in size?..i had a set and they were not even close and it was making one side of the cylinder run fat and the other side decent and when i leaned them out it would lean one side when i got the other side close...i never could get them right and that was the cause..also make sure the carbs are gravity feed or pump do u know for sure the needle n seet are gravity feed?..if they are setup for a pump and u are not running a pump that could have them messed up as well..just a few things to look at..let us know what happens..
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#16 User is offline   J-Madd 

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 01:26 PM

QUOTE (PumaClimber @ Apr 24 2009, 09:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have been trying to tune a 44mm lectron on a 431 250r. I too was getting the hang in the rpm's and usually that means its lean on a Kehien. So I kept richening it up and it got worse. So I leaned it out and the hang is gone. Must be backwards from a Kehien.



I have some brand new (pumper) Packard Lectrons that have been complete junk...burned 3 plug straps. Took the carbs to Packard himself at Gilbert and he said the needles and floats were not set right (were supposed to be ready to run out the box.) Another pass and another burned plug strap. Took them back to him and he drilled out the bell on the end of the powerjet (have no ideal how the hell this could help them flow very much more fuel.) Made another pass, and it didn't burn the strap, but it did not run good at all...still very lean. Drilled the powerjets and barbs out to 0.096''..now it's plenty rich on the right side (the one that was burning straps), and damn near burned a strap on the left cylinder. THeir may be some trash in the carbs causing that, but either way, I'm about fed up with them. For $650, or whatever the hell they cost, they should have been very close out of the box. Anyone want to trade for some good 'ol 39 PWKs (gravity fed) with billet bowls?
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#17 User is offline   dajogejr 

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 02:13 PM

This is a stupid question, but are you running a pump on these J?
If I had gravity fed 39s still, I'd trade you in a heartbeat.

If you're serious, I'll ask around.
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#18 User is offline   banshee#69 

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:37 AM

QUOTE (Chugger @ Mar 12 2009, 10:04 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No problem at all I actually got fed up with them and took them off for the moment.

Im gonna call dennis and rebuild them both and get billet bowls I think my problem lies in the carbs I put the gas ones back in and it ran like a champ.

Yes by all means merge it what exactly does the mod do since i'm new to lectrons?

sorry off subject....
were the guy that bought my old vito's mono form northern ny?off ebay? other than carb problems how does it run?

kelly
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#19 User is offline   JP374 

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 05:37 AM

I have another ?? about lectron tuning. How can I tell if m getting close on the needle? Its my first time w/ a lectron and alky. I dont wont to take it too lean. Its on a 448cc single, It kinda surges at idle if I rev it up it sometimes hangs abit. But when I launch it bogs for a second then comes right back. I was told to lean needle out til it build heats on small of pipe w/ int 20-30 secs. I am just scared of taking it too lean, (being my 1st time on alky). It doesnt smoke at all after being warmed up(if that matters)

Gonna do that Titan carb mod today too.

P/J how can you tell when your starting to get lean? I started w/ p/j wide open and am about 2 turns in now, Pulls hard on top (smooth) But my plug is dark brown. No heat marks at 3 & 9 oclock.

Just dont want to take it to far, Thanks JP

Oh yeah needle is at 50mm now. W/ a pump 32:1 mix.
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#20 User is offline   J-Madd 

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 10:21 AM

QUOTE (dajogejr @ Apr 29 2009, 05:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This is a stupid question, but are you running a pump on these J?
If I had gravity fed 39s still, I'd trade you in a heartbeat.

If you're serious, I'll ask around.



Yeah I'm running the black Mikuni pump. It's the 3rd pump I've tried, just to rule that out. I may give the Lectrons one more try, but I haven't even looked at them in over a week. I also need to pull the head after all that detonation, and take a look at the pistons, even though it has good compression. If I can't find any problems with the carbs or engine I'll trade them for alky PWK 39s (preferable Dave Moore powerjets) and billet bowls plus some $$$.
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