[average_joe]

need to modify some transfer ports. just wondering if anyone has tried or has info on this stuff ? http://www.permatex....Epoxy_Stick.htm

[bubba297]

If it's a gas application then it wouldnt bother me as much. I use the devcon Type F aluminum putty, but it's expensive. Make sure to lightly "notch" or make a few spots for it to grab ahold of. Just remember that sooner or later it is probably going to try and let loose. Gravity, fuel, and vibration is heck on epoxies applied in that manner. If it's something you can have welded I would go that route first.

[average_joe]

i looked at the devcon type F on their site and it appears a good product also. if its used with race gas, how often would i need to pop the head and make sure its not getting loose ? once a month ? once a summer ?

[bubba297]

If it's going to be on that big 500, I would check it once a season. Like everything else preparation, mixing, and curing time is essential for best life.

[pipe-ster]

average_joe, on 09 February 2012 - 09:43 PM, said:

i looked at the devcon type F on their site and it appears a good product also. if its used with race gas, how often would i need to pop the head and make sure its not getting loose ? once a month ? once a summer ?

If it helps I've used AB Moroso on cylinders and cases and its held up for over 5 years now. Like Bubba said make sure your prep is good.

[average_joe]

thnx for the help. ill just plan on inspecting it once or twice a season

[Polonda]

I tried out soem Marine Tex this time around with Alky. I haven't open the motro to see how it's holding up yet though. I'll update when I do.

[average_joe]

pipe-ster, on 10 February 2012 - 08:41 AM, said:

If it helps I've used AB Moroso on cylinders and cases and its held up for over 5 years now. Like Bubba said make sure your prep is good.

finally got some moroso a+b. do you have any advice for proper prep of the transfers so the epoxy will hold for long time ?

[average_joe]

anybody have advice the correct way to prep the ports for epoxy ? send you a 6pak of budwieser . no i better not. postman might get mad lol

[Moser Racing]

we bead blast port area to be epoxied, surface needs to be rough, if possible (using 1/8'' drill bit) drill shallow holes to acts as fingers to help adhere epoxy to surface, wash cylinder in parts cleaning solution then wash again in hot water with a special alumnium cleaner (will turn alumnium almost white). Use hand held map gas torch to sweat area, it will drawn moisture out of casting, let cool and apply epoxy.

[average_joe]

thnx for the advice. i dont have a bead blaster but maybe a local shop does. or maybe i could ruff it up with sand paper ? think walmart might have the aluminum cleaner your talking about ? could i let it air dry for a few days in the house where theres no dust rather than using a torch ?

[Moser Racing]

walmart may have a cleaner, we use alumnium cleaner from chromate. it only takes a few seconds with heat to help dry cylinder, even a hair dryer or heat gun will do the trick

[BlAcKmAgIc250R]

i have also heated up the area with a butane torch aluminum sucks alot into the poors heat up, wipe off, heat up... apply epoxy and cure for 2 times as long as needed... like bubba said its in prep and curing....one night isnt long enough